Trad climbing sling lengths reddit.
Alpine climbs, I always bring 60cm slings and a few 120s.
Trad climbing sling lengths reddit Girth hitch. Find really long draws can sometimes twist or lay funny on the rock, which can be frustrating clipping sport climbing. Need quick equalization between two pieces? Take that sling and make a sliding X. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic I am not doing much trad climbing, mostly sport, and the quad will be used to set up top rope anchors. I had the slings on a few of my older cams replaced recently. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. Extra long extension or anchors. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). Once you are confident with your placements and the spacing between them, attempt the climb with the gear pre-placed - essentially a sport route. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. Aug 18, 2019 · The double-length sling, also known as “shoulder length,” is far and away the most common length, and makes up the majority of the slings on pretty much every traditional climber's rack we know. Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. Imo they are too long for standard Alpine draws. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. I have done top rope, lead and trad climbing courses. If you are constantly climbing 70+ meter pitches, either you are super badass and you don't need advice or you are climbing something so moderate you could probably just simul the few feet. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Reply The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. offsets nuts are really nice to have I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. I tend to use 8. Uneven leg lengths should be adjusted using as much low-stretch material as possible, a doubled or tripled Spectra/Dyneema sling being fairly low stretch I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. I started with 4 which in most cases was enough, I was using extendable only when needed and using my sport draw for when I needed no extension. Dyneema for lightness. Pretty light and plenty of length. 5-3 C4 cam size. I find myself extending many more placement on alpine climbs. When I’m alpine climbing, I will bring 0-2 quickdraws and the rest alpine draws, including some double lengths. Metolius cleaned, lubed and added new slings for $5/cam. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. This gets you a "minimal single rack". Carrying the right length of webbing for emergency bails and rappels during multi-pitch trad climbing is important for your safety and flexibility in dealing with unexpected situations. I never REALLY trusted my gear until I started falling on it. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength). but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. Get alpine draws btw, and you'll always need more slings than you think you do. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. . Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. Depends, what I generally use are the normal sports-style 10 to 15cm long draws and a few 60cm slings made into alpine-draws. I use both lengths. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the… As long as the alpine draws are neat and the same length, you should have no problem with them tangling. These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. Its jus so easy to go "clip-clip-clip-PullDown-MasterpointKnot-Done" and I always carry a few extra double length slings in case of something like having to build a four or five piece anchor. With a 20' cordelette anchor, thats a lot of distance to displace force. On here sits all the extra stuff. I like my BD runners better, but thats personal preference. Jul 31, 2018 · Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. I would not use a dynamically equalizing system in a belay. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. -Prussik cord with a locker. A 240cm is huge but can get you out of some stupid shit. If multipitch or belaying from above I would use two pieces and a sling just for speed to get my belayer climbing quicker but to each their own on 2 vs 3 pieces. I’m thinking of a set of Black Diamond C4 cams from . In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. The difference in service between Metolius and BD is huge. 2 if you're looking to multipitch with people that aren't contributing gear. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those 3 double length slings. Like everyone else, the Petzl Djinn are my favorite so far. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. Basically you want to avoid knots where possible, they have a big effect on the strength of the sling. DMM offset nuts and the biggest offset 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. Get them in multiples of 60cm length, and it's nice if all your slings of 1 size are the same color. This is an adventure-biking sub dedicated to the vast world that exists between ultralight road racing and technical singletrack. Double lengths can always be used in shorter configurations when needed. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. The appropriate length of webbing can vary based on the specific routes you're climbing, the nature of the anchors, and your personal preferences. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. When buying draws, try to go for sets in order to save money. It would eat up the slings and make them less accessible for other pro if all of the nuts aren't needed, but slings don't weigh anything, so rack a few more. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. 9). Agreed on weight, though. Thank you all for feed back! Cant believe how much there is to improve. That said: the purcell prusik is significantly bulkier than a sling, and it's only use is for clipping in on rappels. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. It'll open your eyes as to where to place gear and you'll be safe while you're stuffing around trying to find the right sized gear, right Sling lengths or draws to keep your line straight etc. All my primary alpine draws are 24" that are tripled up With one hand I can easily extend the sling full length. Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. Adjama Is my go to as well. Mtnoutlet. BD merely used what nylon they had in stock that wasn’t “too outdated” for $10/cam. -double length sling. I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only gear (cams, nut key, short quickdraws). (Like 1/2lb). While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. From what I've read they are all great cams but they all have some small differences: BD Z4s: Rigid flex stem :) Good range for > 0. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. it depends on where you're climbing. More if the route wanders. Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. I have a bunch of quick draws that I can repurpose as alpine draws using runners. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. Extend, extend, extend some more. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. IMO fancy carabiners dont really matter much for trad climbing and especially sling draws. Different quantities/lengths of cord or sling. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. set of nuts. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. 3 :) No extendable sling :( WC Zero Friends:. luvpwfphxhufnjueslwyburbaruomlhaahiiuseuwicncbholvroepbvsjvenfjpfj